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This
is a brief introduction to the card game, Magic:
The Gathering. It is only a basic overview
and is not even close to being a complete set
of rules. If you want something more detailed,
you can find the official comprehensive rules
at http://www.wizards.com/magic/MTG_Rules.asp.
Magic:
The Gathering is a Dungeons and Dragons
type game played with collectable cards. Each
player (usually two) has a deck of these cards
(at least 60, but no upper limit). The goal
of each player is, quite simply, to destroy
the other. Each player begins with a life total
of 20 (think hit points), and uses magic and
its effects to try to bring the other player
down to 0. The main way to kill one another
is by summoning creatures (represented by different
cards) and using them to attack your opponent
and block his or her attacks.
Magic
spells are powered by mana. Mana is (typically)
acquired by playing, and then tapping, land
cards. A land card is simply a card representing
some type of land, from which a unit of mana
can be drawn. There are five basic land types:
Forest, Mountain, Plains,
Island, and Swamp. Each of these
can be used to produce a specific color of mana:
green, red, white, blue, and black respectively.
There are other types of lands that can give
you more than one color of mana, and some that
don't produce mana at all, but these five are
the most common.
Tapping
a card is one of the most basic actions in Magic.
It's generally used in a sense of drawing off
mana from the land (as in tapping a keg). In
Magic, this is done by turning the card
sideways to let everyone know that it is "tapped
out". Untapping, then, is the process of
rejuvenation and is symbolized by twisting the
card back to its normal position.
In
addition to lands and creatures, there are several
other types of cards in Magic. These
include enchantments, sorceries, instants, and
artifacts. In the upper right hand corner of
each spell card are symbols defining how much
of each type of mana it takes to cast that spell.
For example, it takes two units of white mana
to summon a White Knight, it takes two
units of blue mana to enchant a creature with
Invisibility, and it takes one green
mana plus three more of any color to play the
sorcery called Tsunami - which destroys
all Islands in play.
There
are thousands of different cards, with more
constantly being added. Half the fun is collecting
the cards, another half is choosing which to
put in your deck, another half is playing the
game, another half is trading cards, another
half is ... oh, uh, never mind. Note that not
all the cards are produced in the same quantities.
Cards have been labeled as common, uncommon,
and rare. Rare cards are not always as useful
or powerful as common cards.
In
your deck, you would include land cards, creature
cards, enchantment cards, and an assortment
of other spells. Conventional wisdom says you
should have about 1/3 of your cards able to
produce mana, 1/3 able to attack, and 1/3 other
spells. Usually all of one or two colors. But,
there are countless other ways to construct
a deck (and sometimes unconventional wisdom
wins).
The
game starts with each player having 20 life
and a shuffled deck. Each player draws a hand
of 7 cards. The players flip a coin to see who
goes first, and take turns playing spells, attacking,
and generally causing chaos. During each player's
turn, he or she goes through the following phases:
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BEGINNING PHASE -
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UNTAP
- Untap all of your cards.
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UPKEEP
- Some cards require you to pay some sort
of cost here (usually mana, but can be just
about anything).
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DRAW
- Draw one card from your library (the face-down
stack of cards left after dealing) and add
it to your hand. |
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FIRST MAIN PHASE -
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Where
most of your turn is usually spent. These
actions can be done in any order.
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PLAY
A LAND CARD - by placing it face
up on the table in front of you. Only
one land can be played per turn.
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PLAY
CREATURES AND OTHER SPELLS - (as long
as you can afford the mana). If the spell
is a creature, artifact or enchantment,
it is normally placed face up on the table
in front of the player, though some enchantments
are instead put on another card. If the
spell is a sorcery or instant, it is put
into the graveyard (discard pile) after
it has been dealt with. |
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COMBAT PHASE -
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This
is when you use your creatures to attack
your opponent
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BEGINNING
OF COMBAT - Anything that happens at
the beginning of combat occurs here.
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DECLARE
ATTACKERS - Choose the creatures you
want to attack with and which player you
want them to attack. Tap those creatures.
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DECLARE
BLOCKERS - The other player chooses
which creatures to use as blockers, and
which attacker each one should block. Only
untapped creatures can block.
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COMBAT
DAMAGE - Creatures deal their damage
to each other and to your opponent. This
will be explained more a bit later.
END OF COMBAT - Anything that happens at
the end of combat occurs here. |
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SECOND MAIN PHASE -
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Exactly the same as the First Main Phase
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END PHASE -
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END
OF TURN - Any "last minute"
spells and effects are dealt with. |
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CLEANUP
- Discard down to 7 cards and remove
any damage from all creatures. |
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During
an attack, there are going to be attackers and
blockers, blocked creatures and unblocked creatures.
You can even have more than one blocker for
a single attacker. This can get very confusing,
especially if there are many creatures involved
and you are new to the game.
To
analyze the outcome of an attack, a creature's
power (offence) and toughness (defence) are
used. These characteristics are indicated in
the lower right corner of each creature card.
For example, a 2/3 creature has a power of 2
and toughness of 3. This creature is capable
of doing two points of damage (to another creature
or an opponent) and capable of surviving until
three points of damage has been done to it.
Once a creature has taken lethal damage, it
dies and is put in the graveyard.
If
a creature has not been blocked, it simply deals
damage equal to its power to the player you
attacked. If the creature has been blocked,
it gets more complicated. For each skirmish,
the attacking creature deals its damage to the
creature(s) blocking it, and blocking creatures
deal their damage to the creature they blocked.
This may sound fairly simple, but when you start
playing spells that prevent damage or change
a creature's power and toughness, you really
have to pay close attention.
Remember
that the goal of Magic is to bring your
opponent's life down to 0. If you can score
a few hits by attacking, by all means do. Just
keep in mind that you need to keep your creatures
alive if they're going to protect you. If an
attack will result in heavy casualties on your
side, you may want to hold off until it's safer.
Also
note that attacking creatures become tapped
and that tapped creatures cannot block. This
means that if you attack with a creature on
your turn, and you can't untap it until the
start of your next turn, then you won't be able
to use that creature to block if your opponent
tries to attack you. (Ah, the complexity rises.)
Now
What?
If
you want to get into the game, I recommend you
find someone who knows how to play and ask him
or her to teach you. Magic can be hard
to learn without actually playing the game yourself.
I also suggest that you begin with the Starter
set. It comes with two premade decks you can
use as a starting point, and uses simplified
rules. Once you've mastered Starter, you can
move on into other sets, learn the more complex
rules, and start building your own decks from
scratch.
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